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The popular New Yorker writer combines the style of Mary Roach with the on-the-ground food savvy of Anthony Bourdain.
Dana Goodyear’s narrative debut is a highly entertaining, revelatory look into the raucous, strange, fascinatingly complex world of contemporary American food culture. At once an uproarious behind-the-scenes adventure and a serious attempt to understand the implications of an emergent new cuisine, it introduces a cast of compelling and unexpected characters—from Los Angeles Times critic Jonathan Gold, to a high-end Las Vegas purveyor of rare and exotic ingredients, to the traffickers and promoters of raw milk and other forbidden products, to the hottest chefs who rely on them—all of whom, along with today’s diners, are changing the face of American eating.
Ultimately, Goodyear looks at what we eat, and tells us who we are. As she places all of this within a vivid historical and cultural framework, she shows how these gathering culinary trends may eventually shape the way all Americans dine. What emerges is a picture of America at a moment of transition, designing the future as it reimagines the past.
- Sales Rank: #563183 in eBooks
- Published on: 2013-11-14
- Released on: 2013-11-14
- Format: Kindle eBook
Amazon.com Review
An Amazon Best Book of the Month, November 2013: In Anything That Moves, Dana Goodyear draws readers into the tentacled extremities of the new culinary vanguard. Bringing her omnivorosity to hundreds of tables, she infiltrates easily a dozen subcultures of the renegades who are procuring, cooking, and devouring their way to a new American cuisine, a “convergence of the disgusting and sublime.” The most inspired characters she introduces are chefs insatiably drawn to experiment with the new: ingredients, methods, and technologies that create never-before-tasted dishes. Goodyear writes with a precise poetry. Her accounts of 12-course (and occasionally 40-course) meals surprise, sometimes to the point of transcendence, occasionally nausea. She’s also unafraid to break her own spell and acknowledge the fog hovering over this hedonistic feast: anxiety over our industrial food chain’s sustainability when the population tops 9 billion, just as we wade into the age of Earth’s sixth major extinction. But even as Goodyear asserts that the bulk of our future protein will have to come from bugs (yes—from bugs), we see her own hunger most clearly when she experiences a meal that evokes vivid memories, “like feasting on my past”: her first hunt with her late father, who dipped a finger in the blood of her kill and marked her forehead. –Mari Malcolm
From Booklist
Without doubt, Americans have become more obsessed with their food than ever before. Thanks to a constant barrage of advertising, cable television networks, an ever-evolving food-distribution system, and a vast agriculture industry, today’s Americans have an immense range of choices for feeding themselves. Goodyear steers readers to the farthest boundaries of the food universe. Explorers and discoverers on prowl for new foods and taste sensations scavenge offal and insects, even eating live octopus to test their mettle. Others believe in the health benefits of raw, unprocessed foods, reveling in their nearness to nature and risking exposure to pathogens in defiance of government regulation. Creative, innovative chefs use new, state-of-the-art cooking technologies to prepare ingredients in untraditional combinations. The most cutting-edge chefs go so far as to risk prosecution by using marijuana in a host of dishes. Seriously devoted foodies will find themselves celebrated here. --Mark Knoblauch
Review
"Food editors need people like [Dana Goodyear]. Anyone who can write so wisely and entertainingly about eating rarities is a rarity herself."—Slate
"Dana Goodyear’s new book, about being a wallflower at the American food orgy, won me over on its second page."—The New York Times
"It is precisely because I am not a foodie that I found such immense pleasure in reading Dana Goodyear's Anything That Moves: Renegade Chefs, Fearless Eaters, and the Making of a New American Food Culture. It was like reading Bruce Chatwin on Patagonia or Ryszard Kapuscinski on Ethiopia, maybe even Norman Mailer on war. I don't want to be there, but I want to have already been there."—Newsweek
"Like any good exploration of an avant-garde subculture, Goodyear populates her stories with all sorts of fascinations. . . . What Anything That Moves does better than talk about weird food is profile the obsessives who eat it. They're an esoteric group whose influence is slowly seeping into the mainstream. You won't want to adjust your dietary habits, but in a lot of ways, it's already changing."—Grantland
"Anything That Moves is frenetic and fascinating and turns the stomach."—Bloomberg Businessweek
“Goodyear is an extraordinary adept reporter and observer. I can’t think of another writer who could have done justice to the material. . . . Highly enjoyable and memorable journey through the brave and strange new world of avant garde cuisine.”—Boston Globe
"I don't think I've ever used the word disgusting as a compliment, but here goes. Goodyear's riveting, hilarious, disturbing, and downright disgusting new book is the perfect antidote to a Martha Stewart Thanksgiving. This journalistic thriller, set among the culinary avant-garde, is all about dangerous eating. A rose-haired tarantula spider roll. Frog fallopian tubes. And the most extreme: an unhatched chick, eaten whole. But this story isn't meant to gross you out; it's a window onto a world of chefs, purveyors, farmers, scavengers, and gonzo foodies."—Dani Shapiro, More
"Addictive, educational, and gross."—Elle
“Goodyear is a witty writer with a sly humor that makes her a genial guide to such a strange and diverse counterculture.”—Los Angeles Times
"Venturing deep into the underground foodie culture, New Yorker contributor Goodyear plunges into the world of dedicated individuals who routinely skirt the boundaries imposed by common culinary practices and tastes. . . . Goodyear’s exploration of this engrossing and morally complex topic provides a solid footing for hearty conversations."—Kirkus (starred review)
"Poet and New Yorker staff writer Goodyear is an insightful, vivid, and smart commentator on food. Here she focuses on the reinvention of food in modern America, exploring the highs, lows, and surprises of cutting-edge foodie culture."—Library Journal
"Dana Goodyear may be our finest longform food journalist. The New Yorker staff writer . . . has written for that magazine on California’s unpasteurized milk movement and Los Angeles’s underground Wolvesmouth restaurant. She does not disappoint here, in an exploration (partly culled from her New Yorker pieces) of what she calls 'the outer bounds of food culture,' which includes everything from the Las Vegas food scene (a frightening notion) to head-to-tail butchering. Anyone who writes about eating 'stinkbugs' is worth reading."—Atlantic Wire
“In Anything That Moves, Dana Goodyear takes as her subject the outer edges and extremes of American food culture, and shows us, with grace, quiet humor, and poetic precision, how closely the weird mirrors the typical. Reporting on the margins of food culture, she reveals much about the broader comedy of manners and morals in American life.”—Adam Gopnik
“Dana Goodyear is one of the most complete and authoritative voices in food journalism today. Anything That Moves so accurately describes the remaking of our modern food culture in America that I swear I can taste it. Combining serious thought and intelligent perspective with writing that is entertaining and inspiring, this is an important book and a delightfully fun read. I loved it.”—Andrew Zimmern
“Dana Goodyear takes us on a wild romp through the fringes of today’s extreme dining scene. The journey is exciting, eye-opening, a little scary at times, and always fascinating. I couldn’t put Anything that Moves down.”—Barry Estabrook, author of Tomatoland: How Modern Industrial Agriculture Destroyed our Most Alluring Fruit
“Finally the ‘foodie movement’ finds a voice I trust. With a poet’s empathy and a reporter’s nose for story, Goodyear brings us the high-minded adventurers and flash hucksters who are setting the future course of American food. This book has permanently changed my view of the plate, by revealing the politics, culture, sex, and crime that lie behind.”—Tom Mueller, New York Times-bestselling author of Extra Virginity: The Sublime and Scandalous World of Olive Oil
Most helpful customer reviews
10 of 11 people found the following review helpful.
Thought I'd be disgusted, but ...
By Donna Di Giacomo
This book should come with a warning: If you cannot handle detailed descriptions of every last cell of animals and insects being used for human consumption, then it's best to pass this one up because Dana Goodyear spares no details of a trend that looks like it has the potential to go mainstream - and may be doing so already.
I read this book out of literal morbid curiosity. To my surprise, whereas I expected to be disgusted I came away with my curiosity piqued. As a result, I will not be rejecting any future reading on this subject.
Ms. Goodyear's overall narrative is clear, concise, and easy-to-follow. She also, refreshingly, didn't put on any airs for the duration of this work. She never once thumbed her nose at the readers who are not into "adventurous" eating or living on the edge of sanity (my sentiment, not hers). She just reports on what's happening, bringing you along with her as she gets into the thick of things - and up front with the people at the forefront of the trend of eating every part of an animal or eating animals who have long fallen out of favor as everyday food.
Along the way, she covers every aspect of this new (?) way of eating: She not only interviews restauranteurs, professional and amateur, as well as "fearless eaters," she interviewed ecologists, entomophagists, and restaurant critics (among many others) to cover her tracks and explore the subject from as many different angles as possible.
By the end of the book, it makes sense why she chose to look at the subject from so many angles. Everything just comes together.
I came away from this book with two thoughts:
1. This is the wave of the future. Whether eating chocolate covered grasshoppers and ant eggs will become as mainstream as eating caviar has become, Ms. Goodyear offers credible evidence that eating insects is actually more ecologically responsible, cutting down on our overall carbon footprint, than eating mainstream (acceptable) animals. Then again, I will leave it to trained scientists to support or dispute her on the finer points of that argument. But, in all, I have a deep feeling that this type of eating will become mainstream (and the more gross aspects of it will be labeled "elegant dining." I see it happening already).
2. It gave me another perspective on peoples' eating habits (and I'm not talking from an anthropological viewpoint where eating insects is part of a culture's identity). As I got into the book, I was automatically inclined to be disgusted with every description of an animal or insect being taken apart and used for whatever purpose. At first, I wrinkled my nose in disgust, sticking my tongue of my mouth in a (self) show of nausea, but Ms. Goodyear's quoting of various people made me rethink the fact that we've all been programmed to think a certain way about food (her description of how shrimp eat debris on the ocean floor was quite interesting - and eye opening).
Although I must admit I was almost turned off at the onset by her admission of a fond childhood memory: That of eating Milk Bones for dogs in the back of the family van. Then again, I thought, that as well as the array of animals her hunter father killed and the family ate were her qualifications and credentials for writing this book.
But it was ecologist Daniel Pauly who provided the quote that could easily sum up this book in a nutshell: "Why are we even contemplating eating insects? Because we are gradually running out of things to eat." - Donna Di Giacomo
0 of 0 people found the following review helpful.
Engrossing Grub
By Pugwash
Food is a topic that cuts across cultural, racial and ethnic lines so brazenly that the tradition of breaking bread has brought people of differing countries, religions and backgrounds together for millennia.
Meet almost anyone, and one subject sure to engage them is where or what they most like to eat.
This book presses forward with many questions about food. What is sustainable? What is edible? What is food? As the world population presses past seven billion souls, what will feed them. Surely the unholy triad of beef, chicken and pork cannot continue to feed the world. Vegetables and fruits can supplement appetites, but cannot sustain a population.
What can? Bugs, for one. Worms, locusts, creepy, crawly, crunchy vermin that can be prepared by master chefs. But what else? According to this book, almost anything. And as of now, there are cutting edge chefs, food wholesalers, and regular people who will and are pushing the boundaries of edibility outward.
Given reality programming, and the propensity to shock and awe our fellow man, this is not surprising. Given the number of television shows on cooking, eating, engorging, and grossing out each other, nothing in this book should really surprise.
But Ms Goodyear does a credible job in explaining food movements, motivations for expanding our food horizons, and the scary downside of this movement. I found my mind wandering from time to time, and feel this was due to some less than stellar editing. This could have been engrossing ( no pun intended) from cover to cover.
,
9 of 11 people found the following review helpful.
Anything That Moves
By M. Reynard
I used to think I was an adventurous eater. Even a foodie. That is, until reading this book. After reading it, I think I'd prefer not to associate myself with the foodies. Goodyear takes a whole world of underground, raw, illegal, and just downright strange eating and brings it to light.
There are several sections in this book about different forms of food. Some focus on the people that get these hard to eat goods, like ant eggs. Others focus on using illegal product, like cannabis in their cooking. Still others focus on meats from endangered animals whose sale is illegal in the United States. And then there are a few sections on underground restaurants and the raw milk movement.
Goodyear hangs out with a lot of unscrupulous characters. Or at least she did when she wrote this book. People who think nothing of eating whale or procuring quite a lot of pot to make a themed meal. I actually don't care about the second, it's the first that gets me. If something is endangered leave it alone, it can become food when the population has been restored. There are a couple of unique characters though who get their reputation by serving dazzling food and never in the same way twice. Like the chef who runs an underground restaurant out of his apartment. Him, I found quite interesting. Everybody tended to be a bit snobby about their food choices though, and have a strict definition of what a foodie can be. Live and let eat I say (except in the case of endangered animals or unnecessary cruelty).
I felt like this book was comprised of many smaller articles. It just didn't flow naturally like a general book would. There were several interesting topics though, the biggest one for me being the subject of raw milk. It's one of the things I think should be legal everywhere with it being up to the person to determine if they want to take the risk (we can purchase soy sauce and drink it in mass quantities if we choose but it's illegal to purchase raw milk in most states and drink it. I know, crazy comparison, but think about it. It's true.). On the other side of the spectrum I was disgusted with the thought of eating endangered animals and the sheer volume that gets consumed just in CA. But all of it was descriptively written and I can appreciate that even if I didn't care for some of the topics.
I can't say I'll be in a rush to try the majority of things that were mentioned in this book. But it was an interesting look into American food culture and I learned a lot. I even learned some things I probably didn't want to know. This is definitely a book for anyone interested in food to read.
Anything That Moves
Copyright 2013
259 pages
Review by M. Reynard 2013
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